Up Tashkent, Samarkand and Fan Mountains by bike (July 22 - August 20, 2012) » Over the quiet Anzob pass to Dushanbe (August 15-17, 2012) Slideshow

Our next goal is crossing the Anzob pass, and from there we can almost “glide” down to Dushanbe. The Anzob Tunnel is open for traffic since 2006, and whatever you may read (it’s called death tunnel by some, and apparently in quite bad shape), the pass is abandoned and all traffic goes through the tunnel --- and there is a lot of traffic, exactly as over the Shakriston. Even mid-august, we find the pass blocked by a smallish snow field, and nobody even bothered to dig the snow away. These are perfect conditions for us.
Here is the map of our 3 last days .

Day 1: From Takfon to just below the Anzob Pass
We are at 1800m and the pass at almost 3400m, we plan for two days --- we carry around 20kg and the road is unpaved all the way long. The day starts by a pleasant ride along the Yagnob valley. First, we pass through rough gorges, then the valley opens, and there are villages and large green spots, we get our best abricots and finally reach the Anzob village. Everyone seems busy with haying --- using either the mules or old Kamaz or both … and of course we get an invitation to share a quick haying lunch. Here, we quit the Yagnob valley, and the real climb starts (so far we have gained only 300m).
We plan a siesta a bit outside Anzob, and I climb ahead, stop at a nice place … and fall asleep. Two hours later, no Monique. This will be tough to catch up … but I give it a try, for sure she waits somewhere. We never climbed so fast, Monique continues and hates me because I don’t wait --- same for me, except that getting higher, I ask myself whether she’s really in front … anyway there is nowhere a place to camp, only steep grass covered slopes and a few Kamaz carrying hay. Finally, a single (long) hairpin bend to go for the pass … and suddenly, I see the red T-shirt, we are safe. Indeed, the only possible campground is at the level of the turn, a 150m below the pass. I am so tired.

Day 2: Over the Anzob Pass (3367m) to Varzob
We are much higher up than expected and not in a hurry … but the sun rises early. and we get the visit of the shepherd … looking for some entertainment. The nice blue sky gets populated with small and then bigger clouds already in the morning. The pass is flat and green, and there is a “guardian” living up here; his job is calling once per hour to Dushanbe to transmit the data of the weather station. He also shows us proudly his touring skis … and we complete the collection with a headlamp … and of course we get tea, fresh bread …
The descent is pleasant, the road rather good, but there are also some very bad places. The flora is totally different on this south side, the grass much higher, and there are these amazing giant fennels I have never seen before.
After 20km, we join again the main road … and the trucks; at least the road is perfect, and we do not need too much time for the 35 km to Varzob, a resort very popular with people from Dushanbe who come to this place to escape the heat. We are lucky, it gets crowded only for the weekend.

Day 3: Finally arriving in Dushanbe
Only 20km left for Dushanbe, and we are not in a hurry to suffocate in the heat … but it gets hot also in Varzob, we are down to 1200m, only 200m higher than Dushanbe. The most remarkable place on our road is the Cement Factory at the entry of Dushanbe, more particularly, the “picture wall”, more than 1km of pictures on tiles showing "the best of Tajikistan". Our guide book doesn’t mention it, but it’s really worth a detour. In Dushanbe, we stay at the “Adventure Inn”, the meeting place of cyclists and other travelers, and we meet again some of the cyclists met earlier … and many more waiting for the Pamir to open again. A pleasant place.


Tadjikistan-j25-12-08-15-001-Tokfon-ss-Anzob
Tadjikistan-j25-12-08-15-002-Tokfon-ss-Anzob
Tadjikistan-j25-12-08-15-004-Tokfon-ss-Anzob
Tadjikistan-j25-12-08-15-003-Tokfon-ss-Anzob
Tadjikistan-j25-12-08-15-009-Tokfon-ss-Anzob
5
Takfon - below Anzob pass
Then the valley opens ...
8/15/12 10:10 AM
1244x720 (872kB)
Tadjikistan-j25-12-08-15-011-Tokfon-ss-Anzob
6
Takfon - below Anzob pass
... and we pass several small settlements
8/15/12 10:19 AM
1279x720 (993kB)
Tadjikistan-j25-12-08-15-013-Tokfon-ss-Anzob
Tadjikistan-j25-12-08-15-014-Tokfon-ss-Anzob
Tadjikistan-j25-12-08-15-015-Tokfon-ss-Anzob
9
Takfon - below Anzob pass
The valley is still dominated by high mountains ...
8/15/12 10:42 AM
1279x720 (1.0MB)
Tadjikistan-j25-12-08-15-018-Tokfon-ss-Anzob
Tadjikistan-j25-12-08-15-022-Tokfon-ss-Anzob
11
Takfon - below Anzob pass
Approaching the Anzob village ...
8/15/12 11:34 AM
1219x720 (1.0MB)
Tadjikistan-j25-12-08-15-025-Tokfon-ss-Anzob
12
Takfon - below Anzob pass
... at the same place across the Agnob
8/15/12 11:38 AM
1280x720 (1.1MB)
Tadjikistan-j25-12-08-15-026-Tokfon-ss-Anzob
13
Takfon - below Anzob pass
Reaching Anzob ...
8/15/12 11:48 AM
1280x701 (905kB)
Tadjikistan-j25-12-08-15-034-Tokfon-ss-Anzob
14
Takfon - below Anzob pass
...
8/15/12 11:57 AM
1228x719 (1.0MB)
Tadjikistan-j25-12-08-15-035-Tokfon-ss-Anzob
15
Takfon - below Anzob pass
...
8/15/12 11:57 AM
1192x720 (1.0MB)
Tadjikistan-j25-12-08-15-038-Tokfon-ss-Anzob
Tadjikistan-j25-12-08-15-039-Tokfon-ss-Anzob
Tadjikistan-j26-12-08-16-001-AnzobPassVarzob
Tadjikistan-j26-12-08-16-003-AnzobPassVarzob
Tadjikistan-j26-12-08-16-005-AnzobPassVarzob
Tadjikistan-j26-12-08-16-007-AnzobPassVarzob
21
Anzob Pass to Varzob
View on the peaks towering above the Agnob valley
8/16/12 9:03 AM
1279x720 (668kB)
Tadjikistan-j26-12-08-16-009-AnzobPassVarzob
Tadjikistan-j26-12-08-16-013-AnzobPassVarzob
23
Anzob Pass to Varzob
Monique arriving at the pass ...
8/16/12 10:46 AM
1226x720 (873kB)
Tadjikistan-j26-12-08-16-014-AnzobPassVarzob
24
Anzob Pass to Varzob
...
8/16/12 10:47 AM
1279x720 (1.0MB)
Tadjikistan-j26-12-08-16-018-AnzobPassVarzob
25
Anzob Pass to Varzob
At the pass: view back to the north ...
8/16/12 10:51 AM
1279x720 (855kB)
Tadjikistan-j26-12-08-16-019-AnzobPassVarzob
26
Anzob Pass to Varzob
... and to the south
8/16/12 10:51 AM
1279x720 (817kB)
Tadjikistan-j26-12-08-16-022-AnzobPassVarzob
Tadjikistan-j26-12-08-16-025-AnzobPassVarzob
28
Anzob Pass to Varzob
...much darker than the bread we have got so far ...
8/16/12 12:03 PM
860x720 (724kB)
Tadjikistan-j26-12-08-16-026-AnzobPassVarzob
29
Anzob Pass to Varzob
... and here the fuel production
8/16/12 12:04 PM
1280x720 (880kB)
Tadjikistan-j26-12-08-16-029-AnzobPassVarzob
30
Anzob Pass to Varzob
On our long way down the passe: view back on the pass
8/16/12 12:40 PM
1279x720 (801kB)
Tadjikistan-j26-12-08-16-031-AnzobPassVarzob
31
Anzob Pass to Varzob
... view on the mountains in the south
8/16/12 12:55 PM
1242x720 (769kB)
Tadjikistan-j26-12-08-16-033-AnzobPassVarzob
Tadjikistan-j26-12-08-16-034-AnzobPassVarzob
Tadjikistan-j26-12-08-16-038-AnzobPassVarzob
Tadjikistan-j26-12-08-16-042-AnzobPassVarzob
35
Anzob Pass to Varzob
... here the fennel like leaves
8/16/12 1:34 PM
1212x720 (941kB)
Tadjikistan-j26-12-08-16-041-AnzobPassVarzob
36
Anzob Pass to Varzob
... and here a nice view
8/16/12 1:34 PM
1238x720 (1018kB)
Tadjikistan-j26-12-08-16-043-AnzobPassVarzob
Tadjikistan-j26-12-08-16-046-AnzobPassVarzob
38
Anzob Pass to Varzob
8/16/12 2:03 PM
1279x720 (845kB)
Tadjikistan-j26-12-08-16-037-AnzobPassVarzob
39
Anzob Pass to Varzob
Down in the valley, Sidi Kalon
8/16/12 1:22 PM
1279x720 (962kB)
Tadjikistan-j26-12-08-16-048-AnzobPassVarzob
40
Anzob Pass to Varzob
8/16/12 2:17 PM
1280x719 (1.0MB)
Tadjikistan-j26-12-08-16-049-AnzobPassVarzob
41
Anzob Pass to Varzob
8/16/12 2:18 PM
1280x649 (956kB)
Tadjikistan-j26-12-08-16-054-AnzobPassVarzob
42
Anzob Pass to Varzob
Sidi Kalon, a village painted in blue
8/16/12 2:57 PM
1209x719 (976kB)
Tadjikistan-j26-12-08-16-055-AnzobPassVarzob
43
Anzob Pass to Varzob
Finally back on the main road M34
8/16/12 3:57 PM
1280x720 (1.0MB)
Tadjikistan-j27-12-08-17-002-VarzobDushanbe
Tadjikistan-j27-12-08-17-004-VarzobDushanbe
45
Arrival in Dushanbe
8/17/12 11:22 AM
1260x720 (978kB)
Tadjikistan-j27-12-08-17-011-VarzobDushanbe
Tadjikistan-j27-12-08-17-007-VarzobDushanbe
47
Arrival in Dushanbe
We try swimming ...
8/17/12 11:50 AM
1269x720 (889kB)
Tadjikistan-j27-12-08-17-009-VarzobDushanbe
48
Arrival in Dushanbe
... and the "lake side tcharpoys"
8/17/12 11:52 AM
1279x719 (795kB)
Tadjikistan-j27-12-08-17-012-VarzobDushanbe
Tadjikistan-j27-12-08-17-020-VarzobDushanbe
Tadjikistan-j27-12-08-17-015-VarzobDushanbe
Tadjikistan-j27-12-08-17-023-VarzobDushanbe
52
Arrival in Dushanbe
... poets (here Rudaki who has a statue in many cities)
8/17/12 3:20 PM
1246x720 (814kB)
Tadjikistan-j27-12-08-17-022-VarzobDushanbe
Tadjikistan-j27-12-08-17-019-VarzobDushanbe
54
Arrival in Dushanbe
... industry (here huge Kairakom power station ...
8/17/12 2:59 PM
1280x589 (703kB)
Tadjikistan-j27-12-08-17-016-VarzobDushanbe
55
Arrival in Dushanbe
... and here the factory behind the wall we admire
8/17/12 2:57 PM
1280x654 (743kB)
Tadjikistan-j27-12-08-17-017-VarzobDushanbe
56
Arrival in Dushanbe
...
8/17/12 2:58 PM
1280x586 (679kB)
Tadjikistan-j27-12-08-17-024-VarzobDushanbe
57
Arrival in Dushanbe
... history ...
8/17/12 3:32 PM
1280x709 (832kB)
Tadjikistan-j27-12-08-17-026-VarzobDushanbe
58
Arrival in Dushanbe
... including of course Alexander the Great
8/17/12 3:46 PM
1280x674 (771kB)
Tadjikistan-j27-12-08-17-027-VarzobDushanbe
59
Arrival in Dushanbe
8/17/12 3:47 PM
1280x718 (865kB)
Tadjikistan-j27-12-08-17-032-VarzobDushanbe
Tadjikistan-j27-12-08-17-030-VarzobDushanbe
61
Arrival in Dushanbe
...
8/17/12 4:01 PM
1279x720 (679kB)

61 Images | SG | Create web photo albums with Jalbum | Chameleon skin | Help